| |
|
Planting asparagus. Among the
earliest of the spring vegetables; requires rich, crumbly soils,
does best in regions having sufficiently cold winters to freeze
the ground at least a few inches. The latitude of south central
Georgia is about the southern limit for satisfactory culture. Mary
Washington is the dominant variety. An asparagus planting, if well
cared for, may be an abundant producer for many years; choose a
spot for it in which it will create the least interference with
other garden work. This crop should be planted in rows 30 inches
apart, with 18 inches between the plants in each row. Cover the
roots to a depth of 8 inches. Seventy plants will serve 100 feet
of row.
Plant only vigorous 1-year-old roots
which have not dried out. Asparagus roots burrow deep for their
water; give the land a deep spading before planting. It is worth
while to spade manure, rotted leaves, peat or leaf mold more than
a foot into the subsoil. In setting the plants cover the roots first
to a depth of only 4 inches, adding another 4 inches of soil after
the tops have grown. Keep the asparagus row or bed free of weeds
and grass; they are largely responsible for poor results. Do not
harvest asparagus the year it is planted.
|
The year after setting, the cutting period
should be brief, about 2 weeks. The second year the crop may be harvested
for 4 weeks, after that for a normal harvest season. Stop cutting about
June 30 and let the tops grow. Remove the dead tops after the frost and
burn them if they are diseased or insect-ridden. If they are clean let
them remain until late winter to cover the soil. Harvest the shoots before
the branches toward the tip begin to show. Mulch heavily with well-rotted
cow manure and straw in the late winter after the first good freeze. This
will increase the size of the asparagus tips and the length as they will
have to penetrate the mulch to reach the light.
Cutting is best done with an asparagus knife,
which is stuck into the ground next to the tip and then twisted to cut
each tip.
|