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Gardening Howto
Bulb planting
Boxes & tubes
Bulbs health
Bulbs spring
Bulbs summer & fall
Care & feeding
Cut flower bulbs
Every gardener
Flower arrangement
Indoor bulbs
Indoor permanent
Naturalizing bulbs
Propagation
Rock gardens
Flower arrangement
Dried plants
Floral compositions
Flower arrangement ideas
Home made corsages
Japanese flower arranging
Mechanics flower arranging
Flower garden ideas
Crowded cities gardens
Fertilization garden
Garden propagation
Setting out plants
Soil flower-garden
Specific uses perennials
Greenhouse
Alpine
Greenhouse
Annuals
& biennials
Bulbs
half hardy
Bulbs hardy
Construction
hints
Flowering
shrubs
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plants
Hard
wooded plants
Hardy
orchids
Hardy
perennials spring
Lilies
Perennials
autumn
Potting
shed
Roses
Routine
work
Succulent
plants
Suitable
plants
Temperature
Typical
greenhouses
Indoor plants
Flowering indoor plants
Miscellaneous folliage plants
Specific home plants
Orchard
Pests garden
Insects attacking plants
Insects enemies plants
Plant diseases
Planting vegetable
Planting asparagus
Planting beans
Planting beets
Planting blackeye peas
Planting Brussels sprouts
Planting cabbage
Planting carrots
Planting cauliflower
Planting celery
Planting Chinese cabbage
Planting chives
Planting cucumbers
Planting dandelion
Planting eggplant
Planting endive
Planting horseradish
Planting kale
Planting lettuce
Planting onions
Planting others
Planting parsnips
Planting peas
Planting popatoes
Planting radishes
Planting rhubarb
Planting spinach
Planting sweet corn
Planting sweet potatoes
Planting tomatoes
Roses in garden
American roses
Insect pests roses
Plant & Grow
Pruning
Rose calendar
Rose diseases
Rose varieties
Special locations
Special purposes
Tree, shrub & lawn
Enemies shrubs & trees
Grafting & budding
Lawn care & maintenance
Planting shrubs & trees
Pruning shrubs & trees
Supervising growth
Pruning plants
Failure to bloom
Pleached allee
Pruning bonsai
Proper pruning
Pruning evergreens
Pruning fruit trees
Pruning grapes
Pruning hedges
Pruning herbs
Pruning house plants
Pruning perennials
Pruning roses
Pruning shrubs
Pruning tools
Pruning trees
Pruning understock
Topiary shapes
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It may seem like a contradiction
in terms to include shrubs in an herb garden, but many herbs grown
for fragrance or for culinary or medicinal purposes are woody plants
and therefore are dealt with here.
One of the best ways to display herbs
and at the same time put a little "oomph" in the herb
garden is to do as they did in Elizabethan times—make "knot
gardens," which were greatly in favour then. The herbs that
form the "thrids" of the knot must be naturally compact
and/or kinds that can be kept so by pruning.
Among the best of the comparatively
hardy kinds are: Artemisia pontica (Roman Wormwood), Lavandula officinalis
(Lavender), especially such compact forms as Hidcote and Nana, Teucrium
chamaedrys (Germander), Ruta graveolens (Rue), Allium schoenoprasum
(Chive), and Viola odorata (Sweet Violet).
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Where mild winters are the rule, such as
in Washington D.C., and southward, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary),
Buxus sempervirens suffruticosa (Dwarf Boxwood), Santolina chamaecyparissus
(incana) (Lavender Cotton), and S. virens may be used. These can be added
to those previously mentioned or substituted for the Sweet Violet and
the Chive, thus making an all-shrubby knot.
Clean-cut lines are necessary for an effective
knot. This involves frequent pruning, which can be done with grass or
hedge shears. A spade is necessary to curb the Germander. This is operated
by pushing the blade into the ground alongside the row to cut the underground
spreading stems and then bearing down on the handle to throw out the superfluous
parts, thus preventing it from becoming too "roynish and cumbersome."
The portions cut off can be used for propagating.
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